Just arrived in Kiev for two weeks to find torrential rain, just like there was in Kosovo most of the time I was there till last week. Seems no way to have a summer, yet it's almost midsummer day.
Kiev is in the midst of football fever too, with a match against Spain going on as I arrive. I've been warned its an unofficial half day holiday, so what with the official holiday on Monday, not much work will get done this week. Haven't heard the result, but the presence of Black Marias with the militia just outside the hotel suggests that they were expecting trouble on the Maidan later tonight. With this rain, even if they win, doesn't look like there will be much celebrating in the streets.
We've been booked into the Hotel Ukraine, which has brought back the nostalgia for the old Soviet Hotel. Not much has changed in the hotel except the name: it used to be the Moskva. The receptionist as usual couldn't find our reservation which had been done locally, though she was looking only halfheartedly, and was half apologetic about it.
The decor in the lobby is fairly typical: a style that probably went out in Britain in the 50s, and has probably been there as long. But it's amusing to think that's all there was. Now Kiev hotels are notorious for being expensive, whether good or bad. At least now there are some international chains trying to set standards for the locals. Yesterday I rang up a small hotel recommended by a work colleague, who like it so much he didn't bother with an apartment. When I asked about the level of service, she modestly said that it was a middle quality then blurted out that there was no hot water. I had completely forgotten that that might be an issue in the summer. 10 years ago, there was always a week or so when the city hot water went off for maintenance in your street, so you had to make do with cold showers and visit someone else in another part of town to get your washing done. Seems it is still going on.
The rooms are not so bad inside, but the keys are still kept by a lady on each floor. They were considered spies by westerners in Soviet days, and were usually old dragons. In practice if you could talk to them, they were quite friendly and would make you tea, lend you an iron etc and try to help if you had any problems. Today's lady is young and helpful.
I enquired about internet and she sent me downstairs into the unreconstructed bowels of the hotel to find the Biznis Center. There after trying for 10 minutes (I kid you not) to load yahoo, I gave up. The office girl said it was always like that, and offered me this internet cafe where normal services are available. I remembered the days I spent 10 years ago trying to send a single email, and it seemed the hotel was not much better than that.
I am looking forward to the great Soviet breakfast, where there is either a really big buffet with food you could stock up on for the day in case the next meal never arrived. Or there is a fixed menu and it is always something you don't like, like really large inedible pink sausages. Makes me gag just thinking about them. Sometimes the omelettes were not so bad, but they only appeared on certain days.
Anyway we will try and find an apartment tomorrow and move out to normal life.