Finally I managed to meet one of my real Serb friends and go to somewhere non-touristy. We went to a bar/cafe (well how do you tell the difference?) less than 100m from Skadarska but one you would never find unless you knew it was there: through a large ornamental cast iron gate, round a corner down some stairs and there you are.
Well I was very confused, because it was like being back in Dveri* in Sarajevo, basically a corridor between two buildings with a makeshift roof over it, hung with random decorations.
It is quite cold out, so my friend recommended hot wine, which got me very confused. OK you can have mulled wine in Britain but usually only in your home or at a party. You don't normally get it in bars. So I always think of it as karstas vynas (recipe here) because that's what you have in cafes in Lithuania in December and January when it's really cold outside. So there we were, knocking back the karstas vynas out of the irish coffee glasses, having a very nice time in Belgrade. Actually it wasn't really cold enough to need the gas-fired patio heaters, though I did have two sweaters and a jacket on. Is it really only September?